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    May, 2006

    路孔,寂寞让它如此美丽

        或许是因为那种不知名的眷顾,连续两次来到路孔古镇的时候,都有着小雨伴随。古镇的地上湿漉漉的,心里也凉凉的。若长的一条街上,穿梭往来的人影稀少。不经意间却发现,风雨中的路孔古镇,略显寂寞,却让它如此美丽。

        路孔古镇位于重庆荣昌县城城东,相传明朝有位云游到此的和尚曾傲,见河对岸一带风景宜人,适于修身养性,决定在此建座寺庙。发觉坡边有六个石孔,似与河中相通,便往石孔倒入糠壳上试一试,不久糠壳果然从河中冒出,于是就把这里叫作"六孔河",后来又喊做"路孔河"。路孔场、路孔乡、路孔镇也因此得名。

        由于连续几天下雨,路孔古镇旁边的那条傍城而过的濑溪河一夜之间已经上涨了好些水位。水流湍急,把古镇对面刻在石壁上的黄龙淹没了一半,但却恰似水中的蛟龙随汹汹水流奔腾而下。黄龙壁旁边就是传统意义上的山神庙,古镇村民用着色彩鲜艳的涂料涂抹着它的外观,青山红石中,它似乎格外的耀眼,特别山涧的那一抹黄,辟邪祈福之功效越发的明显。

        山上的洪水凶猛地滔滔而过,连接两边的大榕桥也在顷刻间淹没在了其中,洪水似乎有企图吞噬的欲望。大榕桥是路孔古镇的七座石质古桥之一,它们大多都修建于乾隆、嘉庆年前后,有的更远的甚至可以将历史追溯于明代,悠悠岁月万千变幻,它们依然如故。

        沿着河边耸立的古日月门进入古镇,静卧在门前的那块石板盖着的那口水井,便是六孔其中的一孔,此水井乃战乱年代居民官兵生活生存的饮水之源,尚有取之不尽,用之不完之说法。它修建于明朝年间,至今乃有700多年的历史。古月门的里面紧接着的是一条深幽而狭窄的巷子,巷子里的石板街上已经布满了青苔,小雨淅沥的沿着房顶垂帘而下,用一滴一滴晶莹的雨水珠儿将青苔浸湿,滴答滴答地滋润着新绿的生长。

        古镇的穿斗白粉墙依然保持着最初的样子,精巧而错落有致。除了新修的古镇入口尚有几处是新修的土房或木房以外,其余几乎每间都是传统的老土木房结构,且每间老房子的挑檐上仍然保留着经过名匠精雕细刻的神物和各种生灵。可能是大多数古镇的共同特征,由于季节的不同,每每走进古镇,就有一丝凉气或暖流,特殊的地形与房屋的构造铸就了这里冬暖夏凉。

        老街上每家每户的屋檐下统一悬挂着灯笼,有的已经褪色,有的仍然保持着最初的鲜红。没有圈养的老母鸡带着一群儿女游荡在街角,把下雨天出来透气的蚯蚓逮了个正着。屋檐下的垂帘并没有隔阻古镇居民、街坊邻居间的交流,他们继续着老街小巷里的东家长、西家短的幸福生活,长此以往,世代生息……

        脚下的青石板将古镇老街的历史串联着,老房子门前一棵不断滋长的芋头叶将碧绿之色演绎到了极致。它旺盛,它挺拔,它欲把春回大地的最初之色将这古镇千百年来尘封已久的那一面瓦灰、一面土黄掩埋。它是如此之寂寞的,却是如此之美丽的。

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