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    September, 2006

    小镇·留住西塘的风


        晚风,垂柳,摇橹,西塘的夜。一个让我沉醉而不沉睡的夜。

        在小镇西塘的中间有几条纵横交错的河,随着清风缓缓地流动着,日复一日,年复一年。

        高大的风火墙阻隔着古镇与新城的相望,却连接着古镇与新城的相守,春去秋来数百载。那些弄堂依然,由外及里,初极狭;那些弄堂颇深,复行几十步,才有着陶渊明式的豁然开朗,数排屋舍俨然,老街穿行其中,人们怡然自乐。

        橹声,远远的听到了嘎吱摇撸的声音。穿过深深的弄堂,走进窄窄的老街,就能听到它从西塘平静的河面上时而传来。乌篷船的主人划着它在河面上缓缓地行驶着,从清晨的第一缕阳光来临之前打破古镇的寂静开始,到夜晚追逐月色下的一池春水常流结束,数百年来,日复一日,随波而逐流。

        摇橹的声音就象一首悠扬的歌,传到了古镇的四方,也传到站在西塘桥上看风景的人们那里。站在桥上看风景,既看得远,又看得全,看得或许唯美,一切的景致都能尽收每个人的眼底。西塘的桥有着悠久的历史,104座小桥跨立分布在西塘的河面上,有的大气,有的精致,承载着每个西塘人回家的梦。我喜欢卧龙桥,并不是因为它豆腐补桥的神话故事,而是站在它的上面,可以看见这江南水乡中悠长独特的烟雨长廊,坐在桥上看长廊,廊下的人们在生活,西塘式的生活。   

        西塘的烟雨长廊始于数百年前,宽约2.5米的它们多为砖木结构,是旧时一个总长1000余米商业区。这里一户挨着一户,因水成街,因廊成市,人们做着过往船流与路人的小本生意。长廊下既遮光又避雨,可以想象,曾经在这长廊下的喧闹与繁华。大红的灯笼挂在屋檐下两根相邻的廊柱中间,它们的影子连同长廊沉放在西塘的河面上,如同一副完美的水墨画卷。期待烟雨时节的到来,那是因为从未见识过那种被生动化、灵气化了的水墨雅致。

        西塘的夜,宁静的夜。几个老人躺在廊下的长凳上,淡定,安详;紧挨着街坊四邻还是依旧谈论着每天的东长西短;匆匆游客也在这时放下了匆匆的脚步,相依相偎,把无限的相思荡漾在水中。临河人家的灯笼已经在傍晚时分点亮,伴随着门前窗下终日流淌着的声音。

        明月高照,小桥倒影,晚风扬起垂柳,小船荡起轻波,西塘渐渐地入睡了……

        我却想留住西塘的风。 

     

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